I went to replace the 4509 bulb that had burned out in the Warrior. Not a big deal. I am replacing it with the Q4509, but that's another story.
Anyhow, I took a look at the 6x32 screw that holds the ring on and it was nearly stripped. I bought a 6x32 SS replacement, but I wonder if the whole thing could be done better. I am worried that the mounting ring setup is too weak in general with the whole assembly being fastened by one 6x32 screw. There isn't a provision for safety wire and failure here probably means buying a new prop.
Anybody else think this? Are there alternate mounts or a better way?
I have a '73 PA28-140 where the landing light is mounted in the center of the intake air filter assembly. It uses a ring with a rubber seal around it, but has 4 6x32 screws holding it in place.
Perhaps they "improved" the design on the Warrior and eliminated 3 of the screws.
I have the same dillema on my 74' On a trip to S.C. fom MI I had to do a fuel stop in "Charley"-West VA. When I got out of the plane I noticed the landing light dangling with the wires only holding it. The pin on the top of that flimsy retainer had broken off. Fortunatly a helicopter mechanic was able to braze on a new pin and sent me on my way. However this past winter I pulled it off. I talked to my mechanic and he told me to make a new one at the CNC machine shop I own. I told him if I do it than it will be WAAAYY over engineered and it will be too heavy. I went back to the drawing board to see if I could salvage the one I had. It turns out I was able to. I took a piece of clear flexable tubing and slit it down one side. I forced some clear silicone inside of the tube where I slit. Then I installed it in the hole in the fiberglass where the light goes. Next I installed some 1/4 inch thick X 3/4 wide self adhesive foam rubber around the clear tubing. next I installed the light and retainer. I used a stop nut on the back side of the screw after I installed it to add a little extra security. It has worked great so far for me.
I hope what your putting behind that landing light ,like clear flexable tubing & foam tape is made to take a lot of heat. Take the blub out, hold it in your hands & turn it on for a while.I Don't think the prop stream gets to the back of the bulb to cool it either.
Thanks for the input. Talked with the guys at the airport and there seem to be two mounts. One with one screw and one with three. Not sure which is the newer one.
I will get a washer under the screw and keep an eye on it. I am mostly worried about the screw pulling through the rim. I'm gonna start looking at what other manufacturers are doing.
Paul, the Q4509 is a direct replacement for the 4509, right? Just at twice the cost or whatever? I'd like the hear "the other story" you mention to learn your rationale.
As to the fixture, my Warrior has the single screw housing with the screw at the bottom and a washer that helps secure it. I tried to follow some advice I got from this forum last year when I replaced the bulb, which was to turn the bulb so the filament goes vertically rather than horizontally. Unfortunately, when I rotated the bulb this way, it didn't fit snugly within the opening (there was some conflict with the bulb and the fiberglass cowling) so I had to mount it the regular way.
The Q4509 has a halogen bulb inside the bigger glass envelope. The life of the Q4509 is listed at 120hrs. The life of the 4509 is listed at 25hrs. However, the Q4509 is $25.00, the 4509 about $10.00.
To get the filament of the 4509 vertical, you have to file away some of the cowl so that the notch on the back of the bulb will line up. Not a big deal. Should be done/approved by an A&P. This will help with bulb life.
If you Google the GE4509, you will get pages of discussion on this for many different types of aircraft.
I have the single screw light Mount on an '82 Warrior. Vibration is the killer of this application. If the bulb is loose in the mounting ring the vertical pin at the top of the ring rattles around and enlarges the fiberglass hole it fits into and wears loosens and elongates the hole. I JB epoxy welded the pin to the ring to stabilize it and put electical rubber grommet in the fiberglass mounting hole. The light was mounted filament vertical by dremeling out a notch 90 degrees from the existing one that locates the boss on the back side of the bulb, and allows it to mount either way.Then I lined the circular lip of the mounting surface with self adhesive weatherstrip dense rubber about 1/8 in thick, and lined the inside edge of the mounting ring with the same material. Place the bulb in the ring and snug it all up. It no longer vibrates and has remained snug for over 4 years with a Q4509 bulb mounted vertically so the inside quartz capsule has not vibrated off its supporting wires inside the sealed beam par 36 light bulb. The screw has not loosened as it fits into a rivnut in the back. I touched it all up with some white enamel and it has been trouble free ever since.
