Have been reading as much as possible on Archers but have questions below. Any help appreciated.
1. Is there a speed difference between the "taper" wing and hershey bar wing? Any info on Pros/Cons appreciated.
2. Had read that wing tips (knots2U or Lopresti) won't increase speed on a hershey bar wing, is this true? Anyone with experience.
3. Saw cruise speed listed 125k cruise and 129k cruise on risingup.com, are these reliable or is it only applicable with a bunch of speed mods.
4. Are the gap seals a waste of time? Will they trap ice (not that I plan on getting into any, but I want the plane for IFR training).
5. I saw mention of a 1006 SB (maybe AD). Is this supposed to be performed every 7 years, and if yes I should be expecting to see it in the logs prior to pre-purchase inspection correct?
6. Are there any other known issues (e.g. like the Cessna shimmy dampeners or constant oleo strut recharges).
Appreciate everyones help. If there are other areas (besides corrosion-wing spar, fuel tank leaks) that need more attention, please mention them. Thanks again.
Daniel Hagan Wrote:
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> Have been reading as much as possible on Archers
> but have questions below. Any help appreciated.
>
> 1. Is there a speed difference between the
> "taper" wing and hershey bar wing? Any info on
> Pros/Cons appreciated. TAPER WING FLOATS MORE
> 2. Had read that wing tips (knots2U or Lopresti)
> won't increase speed on a hershey bar wing, is
> this true? Anyone with experience.LOWERS STALL SPEED WITH BETTER HANDLING AT SLOWER SPEEDS
> 3. Saw cruise speed listed 125k cruise and 129k
> cruise on risingup.com, are these reliable or is
> it only applicable with a bunch of speed mods.APPLICABLE IN THE MOST IDEAL FACTORY NEW CONDITIONS
> 4. Are the gap seals a waste of time? Will they
> trap ice (not that I plan on getting into any, but
> I want the plane for IFR training).GAP SEALS ARE A GOOD ADDITION, HELPS WITH TOP END AND LOW END SPEED RANGE
> 5. I saw mention of a 1006 SB (maybe AD). Is
> this supposed to be performed every 7 years, and
> if yes I should be expecting to see it in the logs
> prior to pre-purchase inspection correct? 1006 EVERY 7 YEARS AND CHECK LOG BOOKS, IF NOT DONE THEN DO IT ALONG WITH THE SB FOR WING ATTACH POINTS.
> 6. Are there any other known issues (e.g. like
> the Cessna shimmy dampeners or constant oleo strut
> recharges).MAKE SURE YOU DONT HAVE A HOLLOW CRANKSHAFT LYCOMING AND NO OTHER REACURING AD'S.CHECK ENGINE AND AIRFRAME FOR CORROSION.MAKE SURE ALL AVIONICS AND NIGHT LIGHTS ARE WORKING WHILE FLYING THE BIRD, TURN EVERYTHING ON AND CHECK CIRCUIT BREAKERS.ELECTRICAL GREMLINS CAN GET YOU.
BUY THE DVD AVAILABLE AT AIRCRAFT SPRUCE ON THE PA-28
>
> Appreciate everyones help. If there are other
> areas (besides corrosion-wing spar, fuel tank
> leaks) that need more attention, please mention
> them. Thanks again.
Had a '68 Arrow with the 180, Hersey bar wing etc. It was definitey faster than my present '79 Archer, but I don't know how much of that was because of the wing. Probably mostly because of the gear and the constant speed prop etc. They definitely land different. Not a big problem, just different.
In general, I think the 180 is pretty much bullet proof and the Arrow went 3000 hours over 40 years before rebuild. The later '70 models have a longer fuselage, more rear leg room, better rear seating and the tapered wing. All those add to value down the line.
Speed numbers are often somewhat subjective and really don't make a whole lot of difference in the big picture. I recently was returning to San Diego from Sedona, AZ and the DME was showing 97K as we were bucking an obvious headwind, even though the flight was smooth.
Get the plane that best serves your mission and budget; a hundred years from now the exact speed won't really make much difference. Comfort, convenience and capacity makes a lot more difference now.
I just bought a 1974 Archer 2 months ago. Tapered wing, 400 hour Mattituck overhaul. My true airspeed is running around 120 kts at an average of 7000 - 8000' cruise and 2450 RPM with a burn of 8.7 gph. If you use your airplane to travel, it does matter how fast the true airspeed is due to the high cost of fuel these days. I have Metco tips on mine, but no other mods. I do agree that the first consideration in an airplane is what you realistically will be doing with it. If you never have more than 2 people in it and fly just locally at lower elevations a 140 is a good choice. But if you will be carrying 3 or 4 people on a regular basis the 235 is a great choice, but burns significantly more fuel than a 180 or Archer. I find my Archer meets my needs perfectly. With 4 people I just fill it to the tabs (Reduce the fuel carried) and it's fine. I am training my 3 boys in it so it's good for that, and if I only have my wife and I we can go full fuel and throw whatever we want in it and go. So you kind of work the compromises to suit you best.
I used to own and fly T-Crafts and Champs, but want to cruise and go IFR on occasion so I moved up. I have talked to owners with the hershey bar and tapered wings and there doesn't seem to be a significant advantage either way, although I personally like the look of the tapered wing better. But, then, the tapered wing is on the newer airplanes and you pay the price. I think a 60's model 180 is a great buy. I bought my Archer because it has a nice leather interior and good avionics, and my wife liked the matching throw pillows! Everybody is happy and those are our standards.
Didn't mean to run at the keypad, but I've been around at this a long time and I do see people not be realistic in what they buy and regret it later. I ferry airplanes as a sideline and hear the stories of why people are selling and buying.
I got a 76 Archer. I only have Metco tips on it as a mod. I fly IFR around 125K indicated and burn around 9 GPH with the engine leaned correctly. It is a great IFR platform with the right gear in it. I also have a STEC-50 AP which works rather well. I dont have to worry about the prop or the gear they are fixed so less maintenance. I have had it for a year and the only gig so far is a nav lt quit but it was a little corrosion in the socket. The annual is going to run around $850. The mechanic I am going to use was recommended by Mr.Thigpen and I asked him about SB1006 since mine has not been done yet. He asked me if it leaks and I said no. He said that during the annual the spar area around the tanks is checked for corrosion and unless it is leaking,the old dont fix it unless its broke, sometimes the fix causes more problems. I was a MTP in the Army and still fly helos in the Reserves but I agree with the mechanic about that one.
The metco tips I notice increase controlability on the landing and thats about it. About the worst thing about this airframe is the damn doors seals suck. I keep it under a Bruce cover on the ramp...flys sweet though and I wouldnt trade it for nothing.
