http://forums.piperowner.org/list/20 EN Mon, 12 May 2008 06:30:29 -0500 Mon, 12 May 2008 06:30:29 -0500 Others Phorum 5.1.25 60 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/100114/100114#msg-100114 Martin H
What is the latest feedback on the Matrix? Has anyone out there bought one? If so, why the Matrix vs the Saratoga or the 6XT?

How do you like it?

I just think it is an intriguing concept.

Martin]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/100114/100114#msg-100114 Mon, 12 May 2008 06:30:29 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/99132/99132#msg-99132 Fred Milton
Any tips are greatly appreciated!

Fred Milton
Pittsfield, MA.]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/99132/99132#msg-99132 Tue, 22 Apr 2008 16:20:08 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/95802/96104#msg-96104 thito01 Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/95802/96104#msg-96104 Tue, 26 Feb 2008 16:53:57 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/89675/96095#msg-96095 mckenna
This is a 'late response', however, the windshield de-ice plate should not make a noise...mine does not. If your Seneca is a 1989 model, it is a III, and if it is a 1999 Seneca V, it really doesn't matter, as they both have the same plate.
I would suggest you check the electrical wire going to the plate., If the wrap around the wiring is frayed, you will get a noise, probably a whistling sound!
Good luck.

David
Seneca III C-FJMM]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/89675/96095#msg-96095 Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:49:27 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/95802/95802#msg-95802 bob smith Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/95802/95802#msg-95802 Thu, 21 Feb 2008 22:43:37 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/94773/95355#msg-95355 PETDOCTOR Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/94773/95355#msg-95355 Fri, 15 Feb 2008 16:58:54 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/94773/94802#msg-94802 glenn j
The scissors should have no play when trying to shake it side to side. Make sure the bushings and bolts in the strut and the nosewheel fork have no play. Even a tiny amount will allow it to shimmy.

The shimmy is usually caused by an imbalanced tire/wheel assembly, and it gets worse as play develops in the steering and the scissors.]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/94773/94802#msg-94802 Wed, 06 Feb 2008 23:06:06 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/94773/94773#msg-94773 PETDOCTOR Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/94773/94773#msg-94773 Wed, 06 Feb 2008 14:55:06 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/91247/92334#msg-92334 ian rosewell
Ian]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/91247/92334#msg-92334 Mon, 31 Dec 2007 11:08:15 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90144/92084#msg-92084 Mike Beard We used Stoddard solvent and the brake pressure tank set at about 10 to 15psi. It took us about 2 hours to get it worked out- just slowly working the prop control back and forth until it moved freely. In fact, it is now the loosest and smoothest of the six engine controls. Made a bit of a mess, but didn't stink up the cockpit like I was afraid it might. Annual comes due here in January, so I'll do the rest then.
Thanks for the handy tip, Glenn!
Happy New Year-
Mike Beard]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90144/92084#msg-92084 Thu, 27 Dec 2007 13:31:45 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/91247/91521#msg-91521 tj
tj]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/91247/91521#msg-91521 Sat, 15 Dec 2007 10:45:41 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/91247/91247#msg-91247 ian rosewell
a/c is 1985 Seneca 111]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/91247/91247#msg-91247 Sun, 09 Dec 2007 15:59:36 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90613/90624#msg-90624 JimB
Go to www.aircraftheater.com, C&D's site. Go through all the troubleshooting info. Call them, it's their heater and they have great support. I'd start with a new fuel nozzle. It sounds to me that your fuel isn't atomizing properly and it's fouling the ignitor. Don't try to clean the old nozzle. Check the color of your exhaust "stain", it should be light to medium grey,not black.]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90613/90624#msg-90624 Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:53:45 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90613/90613#msg-90613 Norbert
I am trying to troubleshoot problem with CD-45K heating unit which was installed in our PA-31 350 Chieftain in 2002 (s/n 31-8152010). Previously we had original Janitrol unit (s/n 65D79-2).

Signs: The heater disconnects in the air or on the ground without a clear reason. We cannot restart it after that.

We replaced fuel shut-off valve, clean all ducts and had
whole unit inspected for possible failure without success unfortunately. Heater still doesnt work as it should.

We have noticed that each time we clean or replace spark plug heater works for a while and then it disconnects again till next cleaning. we suspect somekind of ignition problem however its hard to tell what should we do to make it work all the time.

Anyone had the same problem?? Any ideas what are we doing wrong or where the problem can possibly exist?

Please advise,

Norbert]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90613/90613#msg-90613 Fri, 30 Nov 2007 03:34:49 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90144/90201#msg-90201 Mike Beard
Thanks for the suggestions. I do have a pressure cannister I use for pressure bleeding the brakes- I never thought to use it for servicing the engine controls.

As for replacing the entire cable assembly- mine was manufactured in 1958 and all cable housings are original. The carb heat inner wires have been replaced a few times, and I just removed, cleaned and lubed the right tach cable-that was pretty easy to do. The prop, mixture and throttle cables are different, however. Like Glenn mentioned, the inner push wire cannot be removed. For that matter, the way the airplane was constructed makes it next to impossible to remove the entire cable assembly unless you are destroying the airplane. I've disassembled three Apaches and getting the engine control cables OUT was a miserable job- I can't imagine what getting them back IN must be like! They are nothing like a PA28.

I'll keep you posted on how it turns out.

Thanks again!
Mike
N3285P]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90144/90201#msg-90201 Sat, 24 Nov 2007 21:49:45 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90144/90171#msg-90171 Tooth32
McFarlene carries them, I think I paid $187.00 for each for my Arrow.]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90144/90171#msg-90171 Sat, 24 Nov 2007 12:19:22 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90144/90150#msg-90150 glenn j
No, these cables can't be disassembled.

You should buy a 1 quart pressure canister, either for a paint spray gun, or one used for oil. Hook up a regulator to supply between 5 to 15 psi air pressure to the cup. Attach a 3/8 inch x 30 inch long hose to the outlet. Remove your cables from the engine connections and place the end of the hose over the cable and secure with a hose clamp. Get a pint of Avblend and put it in the pressure canister. Start with 5 psi of air pressure to make sure you don't have any gross leaks at the engine. Then go to the control pedestal and move the control back and forth until you feel it free up. Put a rag under the pedestal too. You will smell the Avblend in the cabin when it makes its way all the way to the end. The cable will feel like new. Do this at each annual and you will never replace a cable again.

glenn]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90144/90150#msg-90150 Fri, 23 Nov 2007 22:30:08 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90144/90144#msg-90144 Mike Beard
Now that the weather up here in Minnesota is turning cold, I'm wrestling with a really stiff left side prop control on my Geronimo. It was this way last winter too. I've removed the turtle deck and cowling on the left engine and lubed it back as far as I can with Sil-kroil, with a small improvement. There is a lot of cable that is unreachable in the wing root cable tube and under the floorboards behind the heat ductwork.

Is it useful to remove the radio stack and try to get at it from behind the panel?

Is there a special attachment that clamps onto the cable so one can use a pressure can to blow solvent through it?

Can the innards of the cable be removed from the housing (vis-a vis the tach cable) so it can be cleaned and serviced and reinstalled?

Any experiences and advice appreciated!

Mike
N3285P]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/90144/90144#msg-90144 Fri, 23 Nov 2007 19:45:09 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/89675/89675#msg-89675 rick pierzchajlo
Rick]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/89675/89675#msg-89675 Tue, 13 Nov 2007 17:01:50 -0600 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/84895/86487#msg-86487 Zulutime
Yes please send me a photo and let me know what you want for them, and I'll run it past the Boss.

Thanks SO MUCH for your posting, and I look forward to hearing from you!

Blue Skies,

Jane Carpenter
Chief Pilot
CRG Aviation
(970)988-4424

plane-jane@comcast.net]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/84895/86487#msg-86487 Sat, 08 Sep 2007 21:06:49 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/86185/86185#msg-86185 arrow4t Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/86185/86185#msg-86185 Sat, 01 Sep 2007 18:58:23 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/83818/85606#msg-85606 rt51007 Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/83818/85606#msg-85606 Sun, 19 Aug 2007 12:40:09 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/82349/85343#msg-85343 Mike Beard THanks for the comments. I should update this post to report that the fuel valves were indeed the culprit, but not because aux tank valves were leaking. The main fuel valves weren't opening up all the way because the fuel cable linkages were stiff and a little out of adjustment. Repeatedly pushing the right side selector handle forward would eventually open the main valve all the way, but a thorough cleaning and relubricating the cables and adjusting the linkages at the valve bodies solved the problem.
Mike
N3285P]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/82349/85343#msg-85343 Tue, 14 Aug 2007 08:39:29 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/84895/84901#msg-84901 Tom Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/84895/84901#msg-84901 Tue, 07 Aug 2007 06:34:01 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/84895/84895#msg-84895 Zulu Time
I saw in some catalog, somewhere, "hubcaps" (for lack of a better word) approved for the Seneca et al, with a tiny hatch for accessing the stem. Can anyone tell where these can be found?!

Any info much appreciated,
ZT]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/84895/84895#msg-84895 Tue, 07 Aug 2007 00:51:30 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/82349/84892#msg-84892 Zulu Time Having read about your exciting takeoff, just want to say: you did the right thing trusting your training and aborting the t/o. Not the time to be mucking about with trying this lever or that. Just the same, it's good to keep an eye on the fuel pressure gauges at all critical times! I had a less eventful "abort" in a Seneca when a turbo clamp decided to fail on rotation: As the right side of the aircraft became "normaly aspirated," fuel-flow dropped accordingly. As with you, my right-seat passenger noticed it even before I did.
Good job!
ZT]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/82349/84892#msg-84892 Tue, 07 Aug 2007 00:22:56 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/81979/84891#msg-84891 jane carpenter I am a corporate pilot with about 1200 hrs in Seneca II and 300 in Malibu Mirage, only a handful in T-Lances. Beware limitations in useful load for the Malibu. Our Seneca has about 180# more payload with full fuel than our Malibu. That said, the Mirage is a great airplane. Won't set the world on fire on takeoff, especially at higher density altitudes, but goes like hell when cleaned up.

Some say the Lycoming is more robust than the Cont., and since I flew our Lycoming quite successfully 200 hrs beyond TBO (then we sold it), I would agree. But you must mind temperatures and rates of change, even more so than T-Lance or other smaller turbocharged engines (eg: Seneca). Some have problems with TIT probes: need to be replaced every 250 hrs.

If you want speed, pressurization and roominess, go for the Malibu. It is expensive to operate however: our costs were about $375/hr @ 100 hr per yr. Fuel @ 19-21 gph (cruise). Hangaring will bite, because the a/c will not fit in standard 40' hangars. Insurance also, because of 6-seat and high-performance aspect. Also, most insurance co's require annual training (unlike T-Lance and Seneca where you can keep yourself current).

But again, it is a great aircraft -- there's nothing like a "cabin-class" aircraft to make you and passengers feel like bigshots. The pressurization allows for high fast flight (200 kts @ FL200+), plus airconditioning, club seating, etc.

Caveat emptor: Some Malibu POH's have the performance specs at "mid-weight" -- that's you, fuel, and a sack lunch. Read the fine print before you believe all the speed and economy hype!

Good luck!
Zulutime]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/81979/84891#msg-84891 Mon, 06 Aug 2007 23:57:32 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/83818/83818#msg-83818 Ronnie Thanks,
Ronnie]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/83818/83818#msg-83818 Thu, 12 Jul 2007 08:02:24 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/82863/82863#msg-82863 jjouscg Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/82863/82863#msg-82863 Sun, 17 Jun 2007 08:59:43 -0500 http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/82349/82623#msg-82623 Mike Beard I spoke with two former Apache owners who suggested the culprit may be aux fuel valves that don't seal tight, along with aux fuel tanks that are completely dry. This creates a situation in which the engines, while at run up power settings, do okay, but when at take off power and calling for way more fuel, the fuel pumps suck air through the leaky aux valve and cause low fuel pressure and partial power loss. I checked my aux tanks- I thought I had two or three gallons in each- and sure enough, they are bone dry. I duplicated the problem with the dry tanks, then added a few gallons to each tip tank and tried it again, and it seems that the problem is solved, sort of. I guess I need to have the aux tank valve o-rings replaced.
blue skies!
Mike]]> Others http://forums.piperowner.org/read/20/82349/82623#msg-82623 Sat, 09 Jun 2007 19:12:54 -0500